Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800/105 'Ruby & Pave Diamonds'

There are gem-set Nautilus references, and then there are pieces that defy category—quietly living at the edge of rarity, provenance, and extravagance. This Patek Philippe Nautilus reference 3800/105 in yellow gold is one of those watches. A time capsule of high 1980s Geneva, it reflects a moment when Patek Philippe dared to elevate its sportiest silhouette into the realm of high jewellery—with masterful restraint and unmatched execution.

This example features what Patek Philippe officially refers to as a gilded dial, surrounded by a periphery paved with diamonds and set with eleven ruby hour markers—a dial configuration known on only a handful of examples globally. The balance between the warm sunburst centre and the glittering halo around it is breathtaking, elevated further by the bold yellow gold dauphine hands that root the design in Patek Philippe’s classical language.

The case is topped by a triple-row factory diamond bezel, and the original bracelet stuns with 474 factory-set diamonds arranged along the centre links—executed with geometric precision. The watch is powered by the calibre 335 SC, an in-house automatic movement. At 37.5mm, it retains more elegant proportions than the original Nautilus while offering a bolder personality when gem-set.

Patek Philippe began experimenting with diamond-set sports models during the 1980s, producing a very limited number of variants, often for well-connected clients and at an extremely high price point. The 3800/105 is one of the rarest sub-references within the already niche series.

This watch comes with its Extract from the Archives, confirming its production in 1984 and sale in March 1988—a rare four-year gap that hints at how unusually configured and costly this watch was at the time. Also included are service papers and the original presentation box.

Now available through Collectors Gallery Dubai, this 3800/105 is an icon of 1980s excess reinterpreted through the lens of timeless taste.