Rolex Day-Date 18068 'Ruby Pave'

Among the constellation of gem-set Rolex Day-Dates from the five-digit era, few references command the same mystique as the 18068. 

After combing through decades of auctions and private sales, only seven examples of this specific execution have come to light, with just five ever offered publicly. This exact watch last surfaced at Christie’s in 2022, where it achieved a remarkable result of over half a million euros, nudging the top end of its estimate. 

The Crown Collection
The 1980s was a golden age of experimentation for Rolex. Not just in design, but in daring. While the Day-Date was already the brand’s flagship, the 18068 pushed the limits. Created as part of the Crown Collection, a selective range of Rolex’s most extravagant, jewelled executions, this reference is not just rare, but mythical.

The defining feature of the reference is its ruby-set bezel, comprising 44 square-cut rubies expertly mounted in yellow gold. This element alone places it in extremely rare company. However, the bezel is not the only special feature. 

The pavé-set dial glistens with an ocean of factory-set diamonds, accented by brilliant-cut rubies at each hour, and baguette-cut rubies marking the 6 and 9 o’clock positions. This visual symmetry is completed by the highly uncommon, matching red day and date wheels, factory-made by Rolex for this specific reference.

To improve contrast and legibility, Rolex mounted black hands. Also, the Rolex signature and coronet are etched in black into the underside of the sapphire crystal, preserving the visual clarity of the gemstone display.

Condition
The case remains in very good condition, with sharp lugs and full metal integrity, showing only minimal signs of careful wear over the decades. The ruby-set bezel, often prone to loss or damage on gem-set pieces of this age, is completely intact. The watch is paired with its original 18k yellow gold President bracelet, date-stamped for 1983, and remains in well-preserved condition. The watch is powered by the robust automatic caliber 3055, with quickset date. 

At the time of its release, this exact configuration came with a retail price tag of $50,350, more than five times the cost of a regular Day-Date. That makes sense, considering the level of craftsmanship, rarity of materials, and small-scale production. A true collector's piece!