Rolex Day-Date 18338 'Russian & XL Pavé Diamond Dial'

From Russia with love.

Crafted in solid 18k yellow gold, this watch is fitted with a factory XL pavé diamond dial. The stones here are larger, set with greater spacing and coverage than the standard pavé dial. The dial is absent of hour markers, allowing the diamonds to dominate the display completely. The result is extravagant and refined, a dial that draws the eye without distraction. Framing the case are factory-set diamond lugs, seamlessly extending the brilliance beyond the dial itself. 

Inside beats the Rolex caliber 3155, offering double quickset for both day and date, a hallmark of Day-Date references from this era. At 36mm, the case carries the classic proportions of the model, while the diamond setting and pavé dial give it far more presence than its dimensions might suggest.

Часы, которые говорят по-русски
What elevates this example further is its calendar display. The watch is fitted with a rare, period-correct Rolex Russian day disc, a small but culturally significant detail. In the 1990s, special-language discs were produced in very limited numbers for clients across regions where Rolex catered to high-profile collectors, dignitaries, and businessmen.

In Russia, the taste of the time leaned heavily toward bold expressions of luxury: diamonds, yellow gold, and pieces that conveyed status and authority. This Day-Date, already a universal symbol of status, with its pavé dial, diamond lugs, and Cyrillic disc, fits squarely within that aesthetic. It is a watch that embodies Russian style of the era: opulent, unapologetic, and sophisticated.

Condition
This example has been preserved in great condition. The case shows only minor, honest signs of light use, but remains sharp, with well-defined lugs and edges. Notably, the case back still retains its original sticker. The bracelet is tight, with only minimal stretch and shows light signs of use. The sticker in the clasp remains present as well. The dial is immaculate, and the diamonds are fully intact. 

For collectors, this Day-Date combines multiple layers of rarity: the XL pavé dial, the factory diamond lugs, and the Russian day disc. Each of these elements alone would elevate the desirability of a Day-Date. Together, they create something extraordinary.